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Berne - The charming capital of Switzerland français deutsch Berne - Country-Houses Leaving the city behind, one turns towards the Rosengarten above and so out to visit and give praise to the many architectural gems of the Bernese countryside. One is particularly struck by the close tie existing between town and country. This is noticeable not only architecturally but among humans. On market days when the local peasant finds his way into the city he is so obviously at home and one with the urban population. From various points he can see the country with its view to the Jura Mountains or the high Alps, meadows and woods with their farmsteads stretching into the distance between. The summer estates of «Their Lordships» which lie embedded in the landscape are perhaps the surest interpreters of their mode of life. They combine the french influence of the urban world with truly native traits. Traditional manorial rights and habits were kept alive in a patriarchical System long after they had legally come to an end. These estates are spread far and wide over the surrounding countryside, in the Aare and Gürbe valleys and as far-flung as in the Seeland, the Aargau and the Pays de Vaud though the majority are situated in the immediate vicinity of Berne itself. These mansions are varied in origin. The oldest and most magnificent examples were one-time castles which were rebuilt at a later date and turned into comfortable residences, as for instance Burgistein and Landshut. In some cases they were entirely rebuilt, in others only partially. At the Castle of Worb, for instance, the new residential wing was built completely detached; at Spiez the new addition was connected to the Castle which was otherwise left untouched. In the case of Rümligen the old building was converted. Jegenstorf is perhaps the most eloquent example of how successfully an ancient castle was re-adapted in the days of the «Roi Soleil». It has four equally fine façades, the Keep remaining in the centre. Toffen also underwent a similar transformation. There is another type of country house which did not have its origin in any previous building and which gives the impression of being rather a town house transplanted into the country. To this category belong Allmendingen, though without the wings which were a later addition, Wittigkofen, on which the Bernese should lavish particular care, and the Rothaus at Bolligen. They comprise in their characteristics something of the stone farm-house or perhaps of the old sub-baileywick type of dwelling combined with those of a hunting-lodge. Many such examples may still be found in the wooded country of the Aargau.They have many late-gothic features, such as the gables, echeloned twin-windows and the winding staircases in turrets, known as «Schneggen». These often disappeared later on as in the case of Rörswil. During some minor alterations recently undertaken at the Manorhouse of Gümligen which, to all appearances was wholly an XVIIIth century construction, some old masonry and a blocked-in gothic window frame were brought to light. We come next to the manor houses of the XVIIth and XVIIIth centuries. Oberdiessbach and Utzigen (the latter converted to a public institution) belong to the early baroque period; they are pretentiously pompous, stately and solemn. The Bürenstock in the Schosshalde belongs to the period of Louis XIV as also the new house at Bümpliz. Both are single story buildings with heavy mansard roofs. These are followed by the two country seats of Hieronymus von Erlach : Thunstetten and Hindelbank, or Beat Fischer's manors at Gümligen built in Régence and Louis XV styles. The classic revival period is represented by the Fellenberg family's country place at Hofwyl, the Lohn near Kehrsatz and Ortbühl near Steffisburg. All three are the work of the architect Ahasver Carl von Sinner. The fall of the old State of Berne naturally put an end to the citizens inclination for building. The large house at Morillon (lying between Berne and Wabern), built by the architect Osterrieth, is an exception as it follows the strict canon of neo-classic symmetry. The romantic period was represented by the Chartreuse near Thun which was originally built for the Chief Magistrate von Mülinen, since pulled down. The former Monastery of Amsoldingen has been turned into an enchanting rustic «château». The Schadau near Thun is a mixture of the Loire Château style and English gothic, as also parts of Oberhofen castle. In enumerating these buildings the writer wishes to establish the continuity in the development of Bernese country houses though far from their total number have been mentioned; perhaps on purpose in order that their infinite charm may rest undisturbed! In Berne these country seats are known as «Campagnes», implying their close connection with the countryside around them. Among the XVIIIth century buildings the most typical feature is the tall french windows on the ground floor and perhaps more particularly the «peristyles» or open, columned summer houses which are so well suited to a partial out-door life. In front of these spread gardens which are sometimes decorated in the french taste with terraces, statues, fountains, trimmed box hedges, ponds and miniature lakes. The entrance is usually through wrought iron gates partly guilded, hung on piers topped by a classical vase. This opens onto an avenue of trees leading into the court yard past a running fountain. In some cases the drive leads straight to the house, like at Holligen, in others it is situated at a short distance away from the house to act as a promenade, as at Mont near the Burgernziel in Berne or Oberried near Belp. And magnificent avenues they are, resembling those planted by the municipal authorities at the approaches to the city, such as the Muri Allee, the Bolligen Allee and the Papiermühle Allee. Beyond the gardens of the country houses lies the open landscape, beautiful views which were not always appreciated as much as they are nowadays; there are even instances where the house has been purposely built with its back to the vista, as in the case of Thunstetten. In those times the immediate surroundings were more highly esteemed and particularly cool shade in summer-time when these houses were always in use. Beside the Manor House one generally finds the home farm, with its attendant barn, hay-loft, bakehouse, chicken-roost, granary and pond, the latter as a precaution against fire. There was also the kitchen garden and orchard («Hostet»). Relations between master and tenants were close-knit, so intimate indeed that sometimes there was no hesitation in living side by side in the Same building. In his inimitable way Rudolf von Tavel tells us of life in the old days as it used to be. Men had a fuller understanding of human affairs and much compassion with them, born of a deep knowledge of the peculiar character of the old Bernese city state. On his «Campagne» the patrician reached his full development-he was master on his own land. This was no sentimental relationship but one of a rather more calculating and peasant-like quality, entirely based on native custom which had become refined by knowledge acquired in foreign service and at foreign courts. Many of the architects were particularly qualified to express truthfully the characteristics of their clients for they were patricians themselves. Besides Stürler there is the aforementioned Sinner, details of whose works have been published by Heinrich Türler in the «Neues Berner Taschenbuch of 1924». Among the entries one finds the following: «24. At Lenzburg for Mr. Hünerwadel, for a large house, plans, eleva., sect. etc. exeq. (in addition supervision of all work together with many difficulties and much trouble). 43. For Captain Freüdrich senr. for various designs of different articles for his Campagne near the fortifications (eight bottles of Burgundy).» Another entry mentions a fée of «one turkey, two capons». There is also a note signed by him for «just demands for the repair of certain buildings and extensive schemes... 320 crowns. All this being due to me between 1780 and 1794, though it seems I shall not get a settlement». Niklaus Sprünglis characteristic work may be seen in the Gloriette at Oberried, the pavilion's on Tschiffely's country estate at Kirchberg and the «Blumenhaus» (garden pavillion) at the castle of Münsingen. Abeille, the Frenchman, was an early contributor. He who built the Burgerspital in town was also the architect of the von Erlach mansion at Thunstetten. He may also have had a hand in planning Hindelbank. Thus we find that the Bernese country seats reached their apogee in the XVIIIth century to completely fulfil the purpose for which they were intended. Their style is typified by a large rectangular building topped by a steep, hip roof of slightly broken contour jutting out to a considerable extent, occasionally enriched by a central projection under a triangular gable, decorated by artistically wrought iron balconies and pilaster strips at the corners. Wings are rarely met with and towers have disappeared; occasionally ridge turrets may be found as at Ursellen and Hofwil. In general the interiors have central passages and unpretentious staircases. Rooms are of an average size and height, often panelled. The furniture is a mixture of elegance coupled with utility and homeliness. There are some fine examples of commodes, card tables, arm chairs, settees, clocks, panelling and doors. Plaster ceilings . are often decorated, chimney-pieces are carved and balustrades enriched by wrought iron work. All this seems in harmony with the owner and his world-openspirit-amentalitywhichwas so happilysuccessful in governing the state. Bernese parsonages are, by the way, somewhat the same in character as the country houses,`thoughofcourse built on more unassuming lires. One may judge of the appearance of these by a collection of rather stiff but likeable coloured engravings by Weibel. The social, political and genealogical factors which gave birth to the Bernese «Campagne» now no longer exist, they belong to history. Very few of the original families still live on their hereditary estates. Some of the most magnificent country houses have suffered degrading destinies, particularly Hindelbank. But still the atmosphere of these homes lives on. Whenever such houses open their doors to casual visitors, they cannot fait to be deeply impressed and people come from far and near to admire, perhaps even to sigh nostalgically for the sense of security which those houses embody. Of Old Berne At all times, the narre of Berne bas stood for power, valour, tradition and a sense of continuity. Though today the Capital of the Swiss Confederation and Center of Diplomacy, the real appearance of this town bas too often been neglected - the most beautiful of all the Cities he had seen, Goethe said. Michael Stettler and Hermann von Fischer know and love every corner of their ancient ancestral town with its arcades, broad curving streets and fountains. Certainly, this book as published in the «Swiss Cities and Countries» series will be a discovery for all those knowing Berne as a name only. Benjamin Laederer, Editor 1957 by Éditions Générales S.A. Genève 
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